Texas and the place of memory

In a couple of weeks, I’ll be giving a talk on the theme of “The Place of Memory” at the University of Texas at Arlington. While I’m not sure what I will say just yet, on my recent trip home I looked for inspiration as Texas always rejuvenates and revives me.

My first order of business was to grab a bite when I had a layover at DFW. At Cousin's, I chose this:



When I arrived in Abilene, I headed for the nearest Tex-Mex restaurant and was soon eating this:



Later, we went to dinner at Perini Ranch and it made me smile to see this:



For breakfast every morning, I had this:



And written on the walls of new Abilene restaurant Abi-Haus was an important message, which was this:



After my business was concluded in Abilene, I returned to Dallas and drove straight to Herrera's so I could have this:



That evening, because it was Friday we went to Melissa and saw this:



The next day, in season at the McKinney farmer’s market was this:



But to balance out the vegetables, I had to try this.



When I shopped at the grocery store, I wondered why in New York they don't offer this:



And in Farmersville, I contemplated becoming a real estate mogul after seeing this:



We sat on the front porch and discussed this year's pecan crop while looking at this:



And finally, we celebrated my mom's birthday. My grandma made her a chocolate pie, so the last thing I ate in Texas was this:



Since good food does indeed end in good talk, after we ate slices of pie (there was also peach), my family and I sat around the table and visited for a long time. Many happy memories were made—it was good to be back home.

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Chocolate pecan sticky bars

About this time eleven years ago, I took a plane trip to Texas. It was my first flight after 9-11 and everyone was still shaky about air travel. Many of my friends advised me to postpone my trip, as they thought it was too soon to fly and were concerned about what might happen. But I had longtime plans to be in Houston to celebrate my mom’s birthday, and despite my fears and anxiety it was an occasion that I did not want to miss.

This year, I found myself back in Texas on her birthday. Last week I was in Abilene for the West Texas Book Festival, and when I learned that I’d have a layover in Dallas, I decided to extend it from a few hours to a few days so I could see my family. But as soon as I made those plans, I started feeling anxious. The airline I was on was experiencing problems, which made returning on time a shaky proposition. I began to worry.

Now, at this point I had a choice—I could fret about my plans and make myself miserable, or I could just let it go and enjoy the precious time I was spending with my family. As I did eleven years, I opted to stay the course. And it was the right decision as we ended up having a landmark time.



Sometimes I tend to over analyze events, but I do think the lesson I learned this trip was important. I often get so wrapped up in my working life that I find it hard to pause and savor those rare moments shared with those special people in my life.

When I was growing up, I had a laid-back friend who measured the importance of every decision by asking the question, “Will this matter in five years?” And it’s true—in five years I would probably not recall the content of my working day if I’d opted to return early to New York. But in five years I’ll definitely remember the fine time my family and I had in honor of my mom’s birthday. We cooked, we sang and we ate slices of pie—it doesn’t get much better than that!

I’d like to tell you more about my trip and soon I will. For now, however, I’ll leave you with a plate of chocolate pecan sticky bars—gooey layers of chocolate and pecans sandwiched in an oatmeal cookie crust. I think you’ll like them.

These are adapted from Lou Lambert’s recipe for Carmelita bars, though I cheated a bit and swapped out the caramel for sweetened condensed milk. That said, the sweetened condensed milk caramelizes as it bakes, so it’s a fair exchange. I also added cinnamon and sprinkled flaked sea salt on top for a salty kick.



These chocolate pecan sticky bars were baked for my mom’s birthday, as they travel well and she has quite the sweet tooth. That said, neither a trip nor a birthday is required to make these. Nope, all you really need is a simple desire to show those you love just how much you care.

Chocolate pecan sticky bars

Ingredients:
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/4 cups brown sugar
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups rolled oats
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
1 cup chopped roasted pecans
1/4 teaspoon flaked sea salt (optional)

Method:
Preheat the oven to 350°F and fully line a 9-inch square pan with foil, leaving the ends draped over the edge. To insure the bars do not stick, either use non-stick foil or lightly grease the foil.

To make the bars, cream together the butter and the brown sugar until smooth. Whisk together the flour, oats, baking soda, salt and cinnamon, and then stir into the butter and sugar mixture until well combined. Take half the dough and pat it into the bottom of the pan and bake uncovered for 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven, and pour over the oatmeal cookie base half of the sweetened condensed milk, half of the chocolate chips and half of the pecans. Crumble the remaining oatmeal cookie dough into the pan and then pour over it the rest of the sweetened condensed milk, chocolate chips and pecans.

Return the pan to the oven and bake for 30 minutes or until the edges are set and the bars are lightly browned. If using, sprinkle the flaked sea salt on top immediately after removing from the oven. Cover the pan and place in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours so the bars can continue to harden. To serve, lift the Carmelita bars out of the pan before slicing.

Yield: about 16-20 bars

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Tomato pie with bacon and jalapeños

On my refrigerator is a photo my mom sent me from last Thanksgiving. It’s a shot of a long wooden table that’s been topped with an array of pies. There are cream pies, pecan pies, fruit pies and chess pies. They’re not perfect, as the crusts may have rough edges and the meringues don’t always form even peaks. But this is what tells you that these are pies that have been made by hand, with love. There’s nothing better than homemade pie.

At family gatherings, pies are usually the way we conclude our meals, but lately I’ve been thinking about ways to incorporate pies into the beginning and the middle of the meal, as well. Tomatoes are not only at their peak right now, but it’s also starting to cool down outside—baking tomatoes into a pie just seems right.



There’s a classic Southern tomato pie recipe that calls for an abundance of mayonnaise. This is not it. While that’s a fine pie, it’s always felt like a side player to me and I wanted something heartier—a pie that could take center stage.

To reach this goal, I first decided to bake my pie in a deeper dish. I used a large cast-iron skillet, but a regular deep-dish pie pan would work as well. I also gave the pie a cornmeal biscuit crust, which is substantial enough to support the pie’s layers but soft and tender enough to absorb some of the tomato’s juices, too.

Adding lots of bacon seemed like a good idea, as it’s a natural partner with tomatoes. And there are also jalapeños, which give the pie an additional bite, along with pepper Jack cheese, which holds it all together.

The end result is a hearty, satisfying slice that works well as a main dish. Though if you wanted to cut it into smaller slices it could be a starter or a side dish instead. You could almost say it’s a little bit like a deep dish pizza, though to me, it still feels like a pie. And while it’s best served warm, straight from the oven, it’s still good at room temperature, which also makes it a great travelling dish for your next potluck.



Because it’s baked, you could make this pie with those hothouse tomatoes you find at the store when they’re no longer in season. But I recommend making it now, as it will be at its best with ripe tomatoes that are plump with juice and full of flavor. Plus, there’s nothing better than homemade pie.

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In other news, I'm heading to Abilene next week for its annual cookbook gala. I haven't been to Abilene in years, so if you have any recommendations for places to eat and visit in the area, I'd love to hear them!

Tomato pie with bacon and jalapeños

Ingredients:

For the filling:
1 1/2 pounds plum tomatoes, sliced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 cups (12 ounces) pepper Jack cheese, shredded
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeño, seeded and sliced
8 ounces cooked bacon, diced

For the crust:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled
3/4 cups buttermilk

Place the sliced tomatoes in a colander and then place the colander in a mixing bowl. Toss the tomatoes with the salt, and allow them to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to extract some of the juices.

Meanwhile, to make the crust, stir together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt and pepper. Cut into the flour the chilled butter, until the flour has a crumbly, pea-like texture. Stir in the buttermilk and mix until well combined. On a lightly floured surface, turn out the dough and roll it out into it’s about an 11-inch circle.

Preheat the oven to 350°F and lightly grease a deep-dish pie pan or a large cast-iron skillet. Gently lift the dough and place it into the pan, working the dough until the pan is evenly lined with the crust. (Unlike regular pie crusts, I don’t do anything fancy with the top of the crust since it’s puffier than most as it’s a biscuit crust, I simply make sure it goes to the top of the pan.)

To fill the pie, sprinkle half of the cheese along the bottom of the crust. Layer in the tomatoes, garlic, jalapeño slices and bacon, topping with the remaining cheese.

Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment paper and place the pie pan on top. (This is to catch any juices if it boils over.) Slide the sheet into the oven and cook the pie uncovered for 30 minutes or until the crust and cheese are lightly browned and the pie is bubbling.

Yield: 4-8 servings

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Green chile cheese steak

The song of the cicadas, the beginning of football and the arrival of Hatch green chiles always signal the end of summer for me. While I usually try to make it home every August so I can enjoy these things, this year I’ve had to stay in New York, holed up in my apartment writing recipes for my new book.

Okay, that’s not actually a burden, as I do love to write. And I’m pleased to say that now that the recipes are on paper the fun part starts to happen—I head into the kitchen and start cooking. But let’s get back to those signs of late summer. While New York City doesn’t celebrate football quite like Texas does, there are plenty of cicadas clacking away and the other day I even found some Hatch chiles.



Now, this time of year in Texas and New Mexico you’ll see large roasters spinning in front of fruits stands, stores and restaurants signaling the presence of Hatch chiles. This was not the case here in New York, nor were the shelves stocked with limited edition treats made with the chiles, as you’ll also see during the season.

But despite the lack of fanfare, after a long hunt I found nestled in a corner of the produce section a small basket of the precious chiles. And while sometimes perishable things that travel long distances don’t hold up so well, as I picked up a handful I noticed that the bright green chiles were firm and fragrant. These chiles were fresh and good.



The checkout people weren’t familiar with the chiles, so I explained that the Hatch chile was an Anaheim chile grown in Hatch, New Mexico. Hatch refers to the chiles place of origin, not its type. So if you see a chile labeled as a Hatch that’s been grown in say, Florida—it’s not truly a Hatch chile, instead it’s a Florida Anaheim. I also told them about the annual excitement people feel about these chiles, as there’s just something about the dirt in Hatch that makes these chiles taste so good.

When I got home, I began roasting them and my apartment smelled like green chile heaven. While it’s my inclination to throw them into just about anything, there was one dish I thought their addition would be especially welcome—in a cheese steak sandwich. Imagine this—tender slices of rib eye topped with a luscious sauce thick with cheese and chiles, all nestled on a soft bun. These sandwiches take little time to make and are perfect for game day or a lazy late-summer afternoon.



This summer I’ve missed y’all as I took a break from my computer. Now that I'm back in the kitchen, however, I look forward to spending more time with you as I get busy again. But first, I’m going to have another green chile cheese steak, as they are simple, satisfying and very, very good.

Green chile cheese steak sandwich

For the green chile cheese sauce:
6 Hatch or Anaheim green chiles
2 jalapeño chiles
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 medium yellow onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
8 ounces cream cheese, cubed
2 cups (8 ounces) shredded Muenster
2 cups (8 ounces) shredded Monterey Jack
1/2 cup half-and-half
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Salt to taste

For the sandwiches:
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 medium yellow onion, cut into slivers
Salt and black pepper
2 pounds boneless rib-eye, thinly sliced
4 8-inch hero buns, toasted and buttered

Method:
Roast the Hatch and jalapeño chiles under the broiler until blackened, about 5 minutes per side. Place the chiles in a paper sack or plastic food-storage bag, close it tight and let the chiles steam for 20 minutes. After the chiles have steamed, take them out of the bag and gently rub the chiles to remove the skin. Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles and then dice.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. In an ovenproof skillet, melt the butter on medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 more seconds. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the diced chiles. Evenly distribute on top the cream cheese and the shredded Muenster and Monterey Jack, then pour in the half-and-half. Bake uncovered until the cheese is bubbling, about 15-20 minutes. Remove from the oven, garnish with the cilantro and gently stir to combine everything. Add salt to taste.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet heat up the butter on medium heat. Add the onions and while occasionally stirring, cook until fragrant and almost translucent, about 2-3 minutes. Lightly salt and pepper the rib-eye slices and add them to the skillet. Cook the meat with the onions for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is just starting to brown.

To assemble the sandwiches, evenly divide the meat and the onions between the toasted and buttered buns and top the meat with the cheese sauce.

Yield: 4 servings

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Blueberry lime oatmeal muffins and a new cookbook

The other day my grandma asked me, “What have you been doing with yourself lately?” She had noticed it’s been quiet on the blog this summer and I told her I’d been taking it easy—it’s summertime after all. Though that’s not exactly the truth, as I’ve been in the kitchen quite a bit lately. For instance, I spent a good chunk of time last week satisfying a slight obsession with blueberry lime oatmeal muffins.

Do you ever get fixated on a thought and can’t let it go? That’s how I’ve been feeling about said muffins, ever since I dreamt that I wanted to bake a batch. In my dream, I was hanging out with my agent and while she wanted me to sign some papers, I insisted it was more important for me to bake muffins instead.

Now, this dream did indeed come from a logical place. One, I’ve spent lots of time this summer organizing my family’s recipes and food stories for an upcoming project. And not only was my great-grandmother renown for her oatmeal bread, but my mom also makes these incredible muffins stuffed with fresh blueberries. Obviously, my subconscious mind thought it was only natural to combine the two in some way.



Then there’s the part of the dream that has to do with my agent and legal papers. Yes, this is also a reflection of my real life as I’ve been offered a book deal for my second cookbook. But enough about me, let’s get back to the muffins.

Usually during the summer, I can’t be bothered to turn on my oven. These days, however, I’m a very early riser and there’s nothing quite like eating a fresh blueberry muffin. While they’re good on their own or with a pat of soft butter, they also make for a terrific breakfast sandwich when stuffed with scrambled eggs and sausage. The latter is even hearty enough to keep my stomach occupied until at least mid morning; it’s a good beginning to a busy day.

These muffins are simple. They’re just my basic oatmeal muffins stuffed with fresh blueberries. I also add some lime zest for brightness and a bit of cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla for spice. But my favorite thing about these muffins is how the berries get soft and juicy after their time in the oven. There’s a chance that they might even squirt on your shirt or your chin when you take a bite, but I find that’s a risk well worth taking.

What’s that? You’re not all that interested in baking and want to hear more about my second cookbook. Well, I believe that if you loved my first cookbook, I know you’ll love this one, too. There will be plenty of new recipes, stories and photos. And as my first cookbook was a celebration of Texan cuisine, this one will also praise the diversity of Texas food.

That said, there’s a Texan saying that there are no strangers in Texas, just friends you haven’t met. This makes sense as the word Texas hails from the Caddo word for friends. And Texans, being friendly folks and all, love to share meals and get together. Our food is a way of connecting with each other and connecting with home. So in that spirit—besides showcasing Texan comfort food—my second cookbook will also celebrate the friendly folks of Texas and the importance of gathering at the table with those that you love.



Thank you for reading and your support. And go bake these muffins and share them with family and friends. You'll enjoy them and I'm guessing they'll make someone else's morning a little bit brighter, too.

Blueberry lime oatmeal muffins

Ingredients:
1 cup quick-cooking oats
1 cup sour cream
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 large eggs, beaten
1/2 granulated sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon lime zest
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries


Method:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and lightly grease 12 regular muffin cups or line them with muffin cups.

Stir together the oats and sour cream and allow to sit for five minutes to soften the oats. Meanwhile, on low heat melt the butter and then remove from the heat.

Mix well with the oats the melted butter, oil, beaten eggs, granulated sugar, brown sugar, vanilla extract and lime zest. In a separate bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredient and mix until the batter just comes together. You don’t want to over work the batter as this will affect the muffin’s rising in the oven so it’s okay if it’s lumpy. Gently stir in the blueberries (if using frozen, do not thaw them first).

Fill the muffin cups 3/4 full and bake for 20-25 minutes or until lightly browned on top and when a knife inserted into the muffin comes out clean. Serve warm.

Yield: 12 muffins

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